The dream of freedom, self challenge, joy to reach its summit in several days and to enjoy the wonderful view on the French and Swiss alps chain, the Mont-blanc many dream of it ! From its 4 808,72 meters altitude, this ice giant amazes by its beauty, its difficulty of access and its imposing height , over seeing the Chamonix valley and inviting mountaineers to adventure its trails. Maybe is it part of your list of summits to climb next summer ? We explain in this article everything you need to know on the Mont Blanc climb by the normal path and the Goûter refuge.
The Mont-Blanc climb by the normal route and the Goûter refuge
Shortest itinerary, less technical but also less crowded, the normal route by the Goûter refuge is without doubts the itinerary of reference when talking about climbing the Mont-Blanc. This itinerary takes 2 days, the first night being at the Goûter refuge (3 817 m) before starting the final part of the climb. The climb by the normal route and the Goûter refuge is therefore composed of two highlights, even 3 if you decide to add a supplementary stop at the Tête Rousse refuge (3 167 m).
Normal route climb : Day to day itinerary
Day 1 : You will take the Mont-blanc Tramway to gain the Nid d’Aigle ( Eagle’s nest ) located at a 2 372 m altitude, from which you will start the climb.
The first day is dedicated to climbing to the Goûter refuge, count about 5-6 hours of hiking between the Nid d’Aigle and the refuge. On your way, you will pass next to the Tête Rousse refuge (3 167 m) before reaching the Aiguille of the goûter crossing the Grand Couloir. This passageway is tricky because very busy and the risk of rock falls is higher during the afternoon and hot hours. You will spend the night in the famous Goûter refuge at a 3.835 m altitude.
Day 2 : Once your (quite short) night finished at the Goûter refuge, the important moment has arrived. Between 2 and 3 am, your headlamp adjusted, you will leave the Goûter refuge, taking the direction of the Gôuter Dome. You will reach the Col du Dôme ( 4 250 m), as the sunrises, after 3 to 3 hours and a half of hiking. You will then climb quickly by a short snowy slope to the Vallot shelter located at 4 362 m. Last step to the Mont-Blanc summit, the mandatory passageway on the arête des Bosses, the Rocher de la Tournette and lastly the summit. The descent goes along the same itinerary, where you will go back down the 2500m climbed.
Normal route climb : Accommodation
The two available refuge on the path are the Tête Rousse refuge ( 3167 m) and the Goûter refuge (3 817 m). The two refuge are quickly full, don’t wait until the last moment to book your night !
The Goûter refuge offers supper at 18:30 pm and breakfast at 2 am. Count 30 euros for the supper and 16 euros for the breakfast. The Tête Rousse refuge also offers a meal service in the evening and in the morning. Count 27 euros for the dinner and 10 euros for the breakfast.
The two refuge offer, surely, the strict minimum to its guests, by which we mean a meal service, toilets, and blankets, but the mood there is very welcoming. An authentical moment to live with high mountain guides and other mountaineers ! The collective eagerness before the last step is at its peak…
Difficulty of the itinerary by the normal route and the Gôuter refuge
You need to count in total 2500 meter climb ( about 11 hours of hiking ) between the start at the Nid d’Aigle and the finish at the Mont-Blanc summit. You will need to walk about 6 hours on the first day and between 10 and 12 hours on the second day. In fact, from the Goûter refuge , count 5 to 6 hours of climbing to the Mont-Blanc summit and around 6 hours of total descent. Being in good shape is therefore necessary.
The Mont-Blanc climb by the normal path takes 2 to 3 days, depending on the level and inclinations of each. Other itineraries also exist more or less technical which offer a great alternative to mountaineers wishing to reach the summit of this ice giant! We offer you a quick recap on the two other big itineraries you could consider for climbing the Mont-Blanc. If you wish to receive all the information on the Mont-Blanc Climb, do not hesitate to download our white paper by clicking on the link below.
The Mont-Blanc climb by the 3 mounts or the Italian route : two other classical itinerary
Climbing the Mont-Blanc by the 3 Monts
The Mont-Blanc climb by the 3 mounts is also usually called the second normal route and consists in crossing the Mont-Blanc du Tacul, reaching up at 4248 m from the Mont Maudit, located at a 4 465 m altitude, before reaching the summit of the Mont-Blanc. This itinerary starts at the Cosmiques refuge and is performed in one day (ascent and descent) but presents a greater difficulty compared to the normal route by the Goûter refuge. The mountainous race is a great alternative, a little more physical than the normal path, but with a panoramic view as beautiful and as varied. This climb is divided into two steps : the arrival at the Cosmiques refuge and the crossing of the 3 mounts.
The start is given at Chamonix, where you will take the Aiguille du Midi cable car that will elevate you in a few minutes to a 3 842 m altitude. From the summit, you will need a small half an hour hike to reach the Cosmiques refuge, where you will spend the night. The second day is dedicated to the Mont-Blanc climb, with a start given at 1 am in the direction of the Col du Midi. You will cross consecutively the Mont-Blanc du Tacul, the Mont Maudit and finally the Mont-Blanc
This itinerary is however more technical and difficult to access compared to the normal path climb. The presence of serac, crevasses, ice panels and a very steep passageway ( 50°) at the Col du Mont Maudit requires a better experience of mountaineering and mountains.
The Mont-Blanc climb by the Italian route
Other path possible to climb the Mont-Blanc, is the Mont-Blanc climb by the Italian route (arêtes des Aiguilles Grises and Voie du Pape). This itinerary is a very long alpine race, but that stays practical, provided that you are accompanied by a high mountain guide. The climb can be performed in 2 to 3 days, depending on your physical condition and your inclinations. This itinerary is a lot less crowded than other French itineraries, being as beautiful. The track returns to the normal path at the level of the Dôme du Goûter. Two highlights mark this expedition.
The start is given at Val Veny, located at a 1700-meter altitude. Count 5 to 6 hours of active hike during the first day to reach the Gonella refuge, going up the imposing Miage glacier. The second day is dedicated to climbing the Mont-Blanc, by tackling about 1739 meters of positive climb. The climb starts by the passageway of the Dome Glacier before reaching the Italian peak. This last part, less difficult but very aerial, will lead you to the Dome du Goûter where you will come back on the French normal path. This path does not indicate any major difficulty, but a presence of a high mountain guide is highly recommended.
Here you have a precise glance of the Mont-Blanc Climb by the normal route and other possible itineraries. When you have chosen your itinerary, there is still to know when to climb the Mont-Blanc
When to climb the Mont-Blanc ?
The best time to climb the Mont-Blanc is between mid-June ( at the earliest ) and start of September ( at the latest ) in order to maximize your chances of achievement. In fact, during the summer period, the Mont-Blanc benefits from better weather ( -15°C at the summit on good days) and greater sunlight. Outside those periods, it isn’t encouraged to adventure yourself on this expedition.
Equipment needed to climb the Mont-Blanc
We can only recommend you to prepare your equipment at best before throwing yourself into this adventure ! The light at the summit, the vibrant bone icing cold, the wind…the conditions in high altitude are not of the most welcoming, it is therefore important to bring all the mandatory material and the essentials to live the expedition in the best possible conditions.
Clothes, shoes and studs, technical mountaineering accessories, essential accessories to have with you... We have, with Millet our partner specialized in high mountain, created a complete set of the 8 essentials to climb the Mont-Blanc.
8 Millet product highlights to climb the Mont-Blanc
How to train physically to reach the Mont Blanc's summit ?
The need to have a good health condition
A good physical and mental preparation is the key to success to reach the top of the Mont-Blanc. The more you will spend time in altitude, and walk for longer distances on more or less technical path, the better you will feel when you start the final climb. We highly recommend, a few months before your climb, to alternate your endurance training with more specific high intensity trainings. It is important to solicit regularly all of your muscles, as you will need all of your body, when the time comes to reach the summit.
Choosing the right rope partners and high mountain guide
The choice of your hike partner and of your guide is as influential as the rest of your preparation.
Choosing well your mountain guide is essential as they will be your mentor during all the ascension as well as your best ally. They will guide you in the difficult moments, the moments of doubts, your lack of motivation and your moments of joy. You will live emotional and unique moments that you will never forget, and should therefore have a guide corresponding to your aspirations and personality !
Selecting well your climbing partners is also crucial, as you will go through the same struggles. You will therefore need to assure that your partners have the same level as yours. Do not forget that if one partner becomes enable to follow the rhythm of your climb, everyone in the rope party will have to come down. An important psychological and financial cost!
Mont-Blanc ascent : With or without a mountain guide ?
Mountaineering is not a sport to be taken lightly. Very different from the little weekly hike in low altitude that you can undertake, if the mountains close enough, mountaineering is practised at far greater altitudes in hostile rock and ice environments. The risk linked to the practise are not without consequences. Falling down a crevasse, bad ground reading, rock fall, serac, progression on glacier, rock or snow, mountain sickness… : the list of unexpected events and basic knowledge can easily be extended.
Mountain constantly change, this is why you have to meticulously prepare your itinerary and adapt it on the spot depending on the conditions encountered.
Two case study come up :
- You have already some experience in mountaineering
- You have never done any mountaineering, and you wish to start
In the first case, you will be tempted to do the Mont-Blanc climb without a guide. If your mountaineering skills and snow knowledge are excellent, why not ! Do not overestimate your capacity, it consists of climbing at a 4 808,72 metres altitude and to cross tricky passageway ( aerial paths, summits….) it isn’t therefore anecdotal !
In the second case, the question does not have to be asked ! You should of course be accompanied by a high mountain guide who will know how to secure your adventure and give you precise advices during all of your climb.
Prices to climb the Mont-Blanc with a guide
Mountaineering just like hiking requires a meticulous organization to achieve following your itinerary. Up to you therefore to do the climb in 2 or 3 days, or even to do a pre-climb mountaineering traineeship to get use to the altitude more softly. The prices of the professional guidance vary according to the formula ( number of days ) and sometime even on the chosen itinerary.
Count between 400 euros to 600 euros per person for the supervision of a guide only if you do the climb in two days and that the rope party is full ( 2 people and 1 guide ). The price of an all included formula ( supervision, night in refuge, half-board, and ski lifts) can go up between 800 euros and 1100 euros.
Normally, all the material can be lent by the guide and is included in the global price of the service, but make sure beforehand that it is well the case.
Your decision is taken, and you want to put on this great challenge ? Ideal to put you into shape and do your climb in the best conditions, we have put together for you a 5 days preparation traineeship and climb.
5 days preparation and climbing of the Mont-Blanc traineeship
To prepare your body slowly to the altitude and avoid feeling mountain sick, we recommand that you do a 5-day traineeship of preparation followed by the Mont-Blanc climb.
Frédéric, our certificated high mountain guide partner, offers you a few days of preparation around Chamonix. It will be a great experience for you to discover the technical basic of mountaineering ( ice pick manipulation, roping, ice progression…) and to try your level on surrounding summits.
The first day will be dedicated to an ice school on the Glacier du Tour, before climbing up Aiguille du tour ( 3529 m) on the second day. The 3rd day, the last of this preparation phase, is dedicated to multiple exercises on the Montets glacier and Rognons glacier. During the two last day, you will do the Mont-Blanc climb by the normal route and the Goûter refuge. This mountaineering traineeship is a good way to put yourself correctly into shape and put all chances with you in achieving the Mont-blanc climb.
You would like to do the Mont-Blanc climb this summer? On Hardloop.fr we work with many certified and partner mountain guides, perfectly habilitated to secure your climb. They will be very pleased to share their knowledge with you, but most of all to make you live an out of time experience.
We offer different formulas to climb the Mont-blanc, from 2 to 6 days, that will satisfy all of your needs depending on your level. Do not hesitate to consult all the offers on our site ! You can also call us on the +33 (0) 1 84 67 14 24 (free call) or contact our Customer Care centre if you would like more information on the Mont-Blanc climb.
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